by Daniel Kelada, Wine Writer, Texas Wine and Trail; Founding Director of the Texas Wine Journal
The Texas Wine Review is a column that aims to provide insight and reviews of Texas wines using a professional evaluation approach while encouraging the discovery and enjoyment of wines from across the State of Texas.
Producer: Duchman Family Winery
Appellation: Texas High Plains
Vineyard: Reddy Vineyards and Oswald Vineyard
Wine Type: Dry Red
Varietal: 100% Aglianico
Total Production: 1191 cases
Residual Sugar: 0%
Brix at Harvest: N/A
Date of Review: 05/29/2014 Time: 9:30pm (1h,10min open) Glassware: ISO
Quality of Style: 4.5 Drinkability: 4.0 DK 88/100
Visually the wine is a bright garnet to brick red with medium depth and signs of maturity creeping through in the second transition. It does show nice liveliness in the glass as well as having moderate viscosity. The wine looks Italian!
The aromas are more subdued and rooted on the savory side of things with a rustic/dusty quality. Dried herbs (sage and bay leaf) along with the sweet/sour character of tomato leaf are stand outs. In the background there is a sweeter element of cured tobacco leaf. The savory notes are cushioned by a wet clay element that really brings the rusticity of the wine forward.
This wine is a creeper – the light extraction and the mildness of the aroma does not match the intensity on the palate, which I find enjoyable and reminiscent of wines made from the Nebbiolo grape. Structurally the wine is dry, medium-full bodied, has generous alcohol, lively-persistent acid and chewy tannins. The savory notes continue on the palate along with the introduction of more floral flavors (violets and rosemary) and disguised sweetness (cinnamon, cedar and dried cherries). It tastes like a wine made to go with a stew, chili or ragu of wild game – very comforting and rustic in nature.
The wine is balanced with well integrated oak (neutral), a very long finish and pronounced levels of alcohol, tannin and acid. The bigness of the wine is disguised from the visual and smell evaluation. It is a cross between Nebbiolo (tannin and light extraction) and Sangiovese (savory, rustic and punctuated acid).
Drink Now – 2018
Complete Evaluation (click here for .pdf attachment)
Daniel is a Executive Sommelier, Master Candidate and Senior Wine Instructor with the International Wine Guild and through the Guild teaches accredited wine certifications and seminars in Texas and around the country. He has a background in BioChemistry from the University of Texas at Austin and in 2008, he founded GUSTO Tastings, a wine education company with expertise in consulting and event curation. He is a founding partner in Vinovium Partners, a Texas négociant that specializes in premium wines on tap from Texas and abroad. Daniel is also the Tasting Director for the Texas Wine Journal, a subsidiary of the Texas Wine and Food Consortium.